Exploring the Crooked Timber of Humanity

Archive for September, 2011

Living in limbo…

Hey everyone! I know it has been a really long time since I (this is Brittney) have posted anything, so I thought I better do one last post before we leave…I really don’t know where the last nine months have gone, and I definitely can’t believe that we will be back in Nebraska in just one week! I am so excited to see family and friends and I won’t even begin with the list of things I will be happy to have in my life once again:) However, our fast approaching departure has led to a lot of reflection and evoked a variety of conflicting emotions in me. Which is the reason for the title of my post. For the last month, I have felt like my life is in limbo. I can’t be completely excited about returning to the States, because there is so much that I will miss in Latvia. Yet, I can’t fully embrace what time we have left here either, because I know we are leaving and I get really emotional just thinking about it. My heart literally feels like it is being torn in two, because part of me is ready to be back in the U.S., but the other part of me is not ready to leave this life. I’m so grateful for the opportunity that we were given to live in another country and experience a different culture. It has been an amazing journey and my life will forever be changed by the people we have met, stories we have heard, and experiences we’ve shared, which is why I am so sad to leave. We have met some amazing people who have openly welcomed us into their lives, and have largely influenced our overall experience here, and for that, we will never be able to fully express our gratitude. I know that we will be back in Europe again, but people and places change; therefore, this experience can never be replicated. Our lives here have been wonderful! Jordan and I work hard at what we do, so it has been nice to relax and really enjoy life together here. Living here has made us realize pretty quickly what we take for granted in life and the things that really matter to us. There are just so many things that I want to wrap-up and bring back to the U.S. to help you all understand why it is that we love Riga. The everyday experiences such as walking everywhere, choosing which of the dozens of cafés to frequent, strolling in the parks, seeing all of the flowers sold on the street corners, going to the market to get groceries for supper, listening to the locals speak the musical Latvian language, never getting accustomed to seeing Eastern European fashion, eating fresh, local foods, looking up at the indescribable, blue sky, the list is endless…It’s just a different life, and I will miss it dearly. However, that doesn’t even include the gems that are here: the central market, where your senses are overwhelmed and you can literally find and buy anything; the Baltic Sea, which is so calming and refreshing to walk along; Latvians’ deep-seated love of nature and music, which is reflected in so much of their traditions; our favorite café, Rigensis, which has the best honey, carrot, and dark chocolate cakes; the beautiful architecture that you can look at every day and yet always find something new that you didn’t see before; Old Riga, which is so picturesque with its winding, narrow, cobblestone streets, little shops, and beautiful churches. Really, the list is never-ending. It is impossible to sum up our experience, but I hope that our blog has given you a window into our lives and that you all have been able to at least get a sense of what a great place Riga, and Latvia for that matter, is. I am so glad that you all have visited and enjoyed our blog. Until our next big adventure…


Last warm days…

Hi, everyone. Here are some photos from the last few weeks. First, here is a picture from the rooftop cafe that we went to two Sundays ago. I think that day will probably prove to have been our last warm day, as autumn seems to have arrived here in Latvia. The days are getting much shorter, there is suddenly a chill in the air, and the leaves are already turning. Anyway, that Sunday was very lovely, I guess around 73 or so, and we very much enjoyed just sitting there and admiring the eclectic rooftops and spires of Riga.

In the middle of reading old Latvian newspapers last week, I looked out the window of the national library and noticed how stunning the contrast was between the dark buildings and the vivid, pre-dusk sky. I’m really going to miss this view. And also the sound of the church bells on Thursdays at 18:45.

A picture from underneath a large oak (I think) as we strolled through the park next to Old Riga.

Recently Latvia held its first ever international beer festival. Here is a caldron of delicious food that I had trouble walking past. It smelled better than you can ever imagine.

A late-summer panorama of the Right Bank…Please note that you can click on the photo to enlarge it.

A few of my favorite buildings just around the corner from the library. I wish I could fully explain how much the architecture here influences the “feel” of the city, but really it’s only something that can be understood from first-hand experience.

This is one of the more impressive buildings in that neighborhood. It serves as the Slovakian embassy.

Here is a close-up of the facade just above the main entrance. Simply amazing.

I just realized the other day that I had not posted any photos from inside of St. Peter’s cathedral. So, here you go.

And another of the vaulted ceiling. As someone who has been around the bricklayer’s craft, I would like to know how those brick arches are constructed.

A few weeks ago I went with my friend Valters to the very famous Brothers’ Cemetery. Next to it are a number of other cemeteries, including, among others, a Muslim cemetery,  a Jewish one, and one for notable Latvians. Here is the grave of and monument for Janis Rainis, Latvia’s most famous writer.

And here is one for an artist/actor. I can’t remember the significance of the name.

This grave was interesting to observe because it helps one understand that language and ethnic identity are an issue of contention even after death. What we see here is the grave of a Lativan. The first and bigger stone is, as you can see, in Russian. But years later the family of the deceased decided to add another stone in Latvian. It would be interesting to learn more about the stories behind these stones and how the family wrestled with questions of identity.

Here is the main boulevard leading to the Brothers’ Cemetery.

Just before you descend down into the cemetery, you encounter the eternal flame.

As you can see, the cemetery is protected by stone walls on each side.

The cemetery honors those who died during the First World War and the ensuing Freedom War. Each small stone marks a grave. At the back of the cemetery is a statue of Mother Latvia.

And on the stone is the name and rank of the deceased.

Mother Latvia and the sandstone eternal flame.

The traditional Latvian warrior kneeling out of sadness and respect for those who were lost.

To me, this is the most moving monument. It is for Zigfrids Meierovics, the first foreign minister in Latvian history. In particular, I like the inscription, which reads “To Zigfrids Meierovics from the Latvian people.”

And Janis Cakste, Latvia’s first president…It was really fascinating to talk to Valters and  others about how these monuments became sites of nationalist mourning and social tension during the Soviet years.

One of our favorites — carrot cake from Rigensis.

Really, just look at this photo from Livu square. The quaint buildings, the sky, surely you must understand from a picture like this why Brittney and I love Riga so much.